At the end of September 2004, while making plans for my second mission trip to Haiti at the end of October, Haiti was hit by Hurricane Jean. Portions of the northern tip of the island nation were devastated. The City of Gonaives was reported to have had much of it washed away by a fast rising floodwall of water eight to ten feet high.
Because of the extensive deforestation throughout Haiti, the mountains and hills can’t slow the run-off from heavy rains, so flash floods are often the result, particularly when a hurricane is involved. Thousands were reported dead and missing in Gonaives, washed away by floodwaters. Many of the dead were thought to be buried under a cover of mud many feet deep across much of the area. Communications from the hardest hit areas were sketchy at best. A Christian mission on higher ground on the outskirts of Gonaives, Mission Eglise Evangelique Eben-Ezer (Ebenezer for you Biblical scholars), was able to get word out that survivors needed food, water and medical care.
The phone call came to me from my Haiti partner, Crawford Hitt (who I affectionately refer to as Crawdad – and who the Haitians call Gran Blanc, or Big White, because of his large size and the fact he is white). Crawdad told me that he was putting together an Emergency Relief Team through his then parent ministry, New Directions, International. I asked how many were going to be on the team. He said I would make it two, just he and I, if I agreed to go. He said he needed me to have his back. We would be traveling fast with support from a team of locals in Port au Prince. I said yes, of course.
Fortunately, all my shots were up to date and I had already started my malaria pills. I did go get a cholera shot just in case. On October 1, 2004, we were able to catch an early morning flight to Miami with a connection to Port au Prince. We were picked up at the airport by our driver, Paul Fortune, a short Haitian man with a bodybuilder physique. Paul doubled as our driver and protection.
We were also joined by two of our “NDI Boys,” Kalipso and Achka, who had been adopted, in a manner of speaking, and their interpreter skills were vital to a couple of blancs traveling in Haiti. Pastor Clerzius was with Paul and would accompany us to Gonaives to deliver relief supplies, mainly food, to Mission Eben-Ezer and the people being sheltered there.
We spent a couple of hours making various stops at food warehouses in Port au Prince and were able to purchase supplies, mostly bags of rice and beans, and load them in the back of NDI’s deuce and a half truck. Crawdad and I, along with Kalipso, Achka and Pastor Clerzius, climbed into the rear of the truck, basically standing on top of the food supplies we were transporting to Gonaives, and off we went.
We had been warned that there were stretches of the road to Gonaives that were reported to be under the threat of bandits who hijacked trucks and supplies on their way to the ravaged area. We were doing God’s work and decided we would leave the protection to Him. Nobody was riding shotgun on our stagecoach into the badlands.
The only route to Gonaives was called the Cote Des Arcadins, a coastal road officially called National Highway 1. It ran north out of Port au Prince winding 100 kilometers along the coast through the village of Saint-Marc and on to Gonaives. National Highway 1 was a two lane “paved” road which had seen little to no sustained maintenance for many years, probably dating back to the end of the Papa Doc (Dictator ’57-’71) and Baby Doc (Dictator ’71-’86) Duvalier years. The potholes were deep and frequent, and in some cases the pavement was washed away completely.
The trip, which would have taken a couple of hours at most here, took us a brutal eight hours. The shocks on Paul’s truck were non-existent from having driven the Haitian roads constantly. I have had back problems since the Army, and I must tell you that the constant jarring and bouncing took its toll on my back and legs. You had to hold onto the sides of the truck with both hands and flex your knees, or else you would have been thrown down.
As darkness neared, we approached the last leg of the trip. We discovered that several kilometers of road were still under a few feet of flood water nearing the outskirts of Gonaives. Thankfully, the bottom of the truck engine was about three feet above ground level, so with luck we should be able to ford the waters.
The biggest problem was that you could not see the road – more specifically, the edge of the road. Posts with reflectors had recently been placed marking the road edge, but some vehicles still fell off.
There were vehicles laying on their sides on both sides of the road where drivers had inadvertently ventured off the roadway into the ditch, and over they went. The overturned trucks had been emptied of their goods. These vehicles would likely never run again and would be scavenged for parts and probably remain as rusting hulks to mark the flood.
About half way across, almost pitch dark, with water in front and back of us as far as we could see, the truck engine started coughing and sputtering and almost died several times. Paul masterfully throttled the engine and kept it alive. It still sputtered and bellowed white smoke, but it kept running. If we had been stranded there, the bandits would have surely targeted us.
That crossing took a while as we inched our way down the flooded highway.
By the time we finally reached a high point in the road and left the water, it was late.
Mission Eben-Ezer had been expecting us all day. When we pulled into the fenced ministry compound, there were few lights besides our headlights, other than some flashlights held by those greeting us. Electricity was scarce and only provided by gasoline powered generators. As we pulled to a stop, we were surrounded by a crowd of happy Haitians, many of whom were children.
They were waving, cheering and welcoming us. Pretty cool. Everyone immediately joined in to unload the food supplies into a makeshift food warehouse.
We were then escorted to their worship center, where some of the denizens of Mission Eben-Ezer awaited us. By the illumination of a couple of light bulbs they welcomed and serenaded us, singing in French Creole. It was magical.
We were exhausted and hungry, and they took us into a dining room where we were fed. The room was dark, except for a couple of candles on the walls, but the food was delicious. It was rice and peas with some sort of meat. Kalipso pulled out a lighter to see what we were eating and discovered it was Vienna Sausage cut up into small pieces.
Before you turn your nose up, remember that they had little to nothing to eat, and as custom dictates in Haiti, the guests get the best you have. It doesn’t get any better than the best someone has.
That night Crawdad and I were put up in a little cinderblock building behind the mission. It was close to a hundred degrees inside the building, with only a small window slit at the top of the wall for ventilation. The sweat poured off of us, soaking the sheets covering the beds. We would have gone outside onto the porch to sleep, braving the mosquitos, but that is where Kalipso, Achka and Pastor Clerzius were sleeping. Paul slept in the cab of his truck. There was a young goat that cried all night long somewhere nearby. Crawdad and I tried to pay the other to slip out and kill the goat, to no avail. Not much sleep that night.
The next day was an experience I’ll never forget. We were partnering with the International Red Cross, C.A.R.E., and U.N. Peacekeeping troops from Argentina for security, for one of the first organized food and water distributions to the citizens of Gonaives.
Two thousand people were expected. Ten thousand showed up. That is for another story.
After the food distribution we took a tour through the devastated remains of Gonaives.
We then started the trip back to Port au Prince only 15 hours after we had arrived.
We had the 100 kilometers of bad road to look forward to. The road leaving Gonaives was still flooded.
Seeing it in daylight, I could hardly believe we had made it across in the dark.
It was treacherous, especially trying to pass by vehicles coming in the opposite direction.
The trip coming had been bad, but the trip back was worse.
We had no cushion of food to stand on, instead standing on the steel plate of the truck bed.
It beat us to death.
After a rain shower that soaked us, we arrived in Port au Prince after dark and checked into a local guesthouse compound where missionaries stayed while on mission trips in Port au Prince. Crawdad and I put on shorts and headed to the swimming pool where we allowed our bodies to relax and be comforted by the cool water. We became instant mini-celebrities once the missionaries realized we had just come from Gonaives. They all wanted to hear about what we had seen. It was worse than they had heard. When I climbed out of the pool, my legs no longer worked. A nice young man helped me walk back to the sleeping room, which I shared with a half dozen other missionaries. I slept like a baby. One side note – this guesthouse was completely destroyed in the 2010 earthquake, killing many missionaries staying there.
That night I had dreams of 100 kilometers of bad road. I still have those dreams.
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